Can You Drill Through Tile?
Yes, you can. The secret is the right bit, a slow speed, no hammer mode, and a splash of water to keep things cool. Get those four right and you can put a clean hole through ceramic or porcelain without a single crack. Here is exactly how.
Drilling into a tile feels risky, and for good reason. One wrong move and you get a crack that spreads from the hole across the whole tile. But the pros do it every day without drama. So what do they know that most DIYers miss?
It comes down to four things: the bit, the speed, the pressure, and heat. Match the bit to the tile, keep the speed low, let the tool do the work, and keep the tip cool with water. Do that and the tile never sees the shock that cracks it.
Key takeaways
- Use the right bit. Diamond-tipped for porcelain, vitrified, stone and glass; tungsten carbide for softer glazed ceramic (Screwfix, 2025).
- Go slow. Around 400–600 RPM for porcelain and 600–900 RPM for ceramic. High speed builds heat and cracks the glaze.
- Never use hammer mode on the tile itself. Switch to hammer only once you're through the tile and into masonry behind it.
- Keep it cool and taped. Water stops the bit overheating; masking tape stops it skating off the mark.
And if a tile does crack despite your best effort? Our guide to fixing cracked tiles walks through the repair and replacement.
Can you drill through tile?
Yes, with the right kit. A diamond or tungsten-carbide bit cuts cleanly through tile as long as you run it slow and keep it cool (Screwfix, 2025). Tile is hard and brittle, so it's heat and impact that crack it, not the drilling itself.
Think of it as grinding, not punching. A diamond bit abrades a neat hole a fraction at a time. A regular twist bit or hammer setting tries to punch through, and that shock is what sends a crack racing across the tile.
The type of tile matters too. Soft glazed ceramic is fairly forgiving. Porcelain and natural stone are much harder and less forgiving, so they need a diamond bit and extra patience. The next section shows exactly why.
Which drill bit do you need for tile?
It depends on how hard your tile is. Tungsten carbide handles softer glazed ceramic; harder porcelain, stone and glass need a diamond tip. This hardness chart shows why.
How hard is your tile? (Mohs hardness scale)
Higher = harder to drill. Only a diamond bit out-hardens porcelain.
Diamond-tipped bit
For the hard stuff. Abrades rather than punches.
- Porcelain and vitrified tiles
- Natural stone (marble, granite)
- Glass tiles and mosaics
- Always run wet to keep it cool
Tungsten carbide bit
Enough for softer glazed wall tiles.
- Glazed ceramic wall tiles
- Cheaper than diamond bits
- Not up to porcelain or stone
- Still drill slow, no hammer mode
What speed should you drill tile at?
Slow. In 2026, tiling guides put the sweet spot at around 400–600 RPM for porcelain and 600–900 RPM for ceramic (Tile Mountain, 2025). High speed builds frictional heat, which expands microcracks and weakens the glaze.
Recommended drill speed by tile (RPM)
Stay inside the coloured window. Slower is safer than faster.
Let the bit do the work. Pressing hard doesn't speed things up; it makes the bit skate, crack the tile, or burn out the tip. Use light, steady pressure and let the slow rotation grind the hole gradually.
Tile type, bit and speed at a glance
Not sure what you've got? Match your tile to the row below for the right bit and starting speed.
| Tile type | Bit | Speed | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Glazed ceramic (wall) | Tungsten carbide | 600–900 RPM | Softer glaze; carbide is enough. |
| Porcelain / vitrified | Diamond-tipped | 400–600 RPM | Very hard. Diamond only, run wet. |
| Natural stone | Diamond-tipped | Low, keep wet | Marble and granite; go slow and cool. |
| Glass tile / mosaic | Diamond (spear point) | Low | Brittle. Light pressure and water. |
What tools do you need to drill tile?
Beyond the drill and the right bit from the chart above, here's the rest of the kit that keeps the job clean and safe.
A drill (not hammer mode)
Any variable-speed drill works. Turn hammer or impact mode off for the tile.
Masking tape
A cross of tape over the mark stops the bit skating and grips the glaze.
Water or a spray bottle
Keep the bit wet to stop heat building up and cracking the tile.
Safety glasses
Tile dust and shards fly. Protect your eyes from start to finish.
The right drill bit
Diamond-tipped for porcelain, stone and glass; tungsten carbide for softer glazed ceramic.
How to drill through tile step by step
Here's the full routine, from marking the spot to reaching the wall behind. Follow it and the tile stays whole.
Mark and tape
Mark the spot, then stick a cross of masking tape over it. The tape grips the glaze so the bit can't wander.
Start slow and straight
Hold the drill square to the tile. Begin at low speed with gentle pressure to score a starting divot.
Keep the speed low
Stay around 400–600 RPM for porcelain, 600–900 for ceramic. No hammer mode, ever, while in the tile.
Add water to cool
Spray or dab water on the bit as you go. A cool tip cuts cleanly and stops heat cracks forming.
Ease off as you break through
Lighten the pressure just before the bit exits the tile. That last moment is when tiles chip.
Switch bits for the wall
Once through the tile, swap to a masonry bit (and hammer mode if needed) to drill the substrate behind.
Tile-drilling mistakes that cause cracks
Almost every cracked tile comes from one of these slips. Keep to the left column and the hole stays clean.
Do
- Match the bit to the tile hardness
- Tape the spot before you start
- Drill slow with light, steady pressure
- Keep the bit wet and cool
- Ease off as the bit breaks through
- Switch to a masonry bit for the wall behind
Avoid
- Hammer or impact mode on the tile
- A standard twist bit on porcelain or stone
- High speed that overheats the glaze
- Leaning hard on the drill
- Drilling dry until the bit smokes
- Drilling near an edge or a grout line
Nervous about drilling that expensive tile?
On a feature wall or a costly porcelain floor, one crack is an expensive lesson. The WA Kajaria Ceramics team can supply matching tiles, advise on fixings, or handle the drilling and installation across Perth and Western Australia, so it's done right the first time.
Drilling through tile: common questions
What drill bit goes through tile?
A diamond-tipped bit for porcelain, vitrified, stone and glass tiles, and a tungsten carbide bit for softer glazed ceramic. Standard twist or wood bits will not cut tile and usually crack it. Match the bit to the tile hardness for a clean hole (Screwfix, 2025).
Can you drill tile with a normal drill?
Yes, any variable-speed drill works, as long as you fit the right bit and turn hammer mode off. You do not need a special tool, just a diamond or carbide bit, a low speed of 400–900 RPM depending on the tile, and water to keep the bit cool.
Why do tiles crack when you drill them?
Two reasons: heat and impact. High speed builds frictional heat that expands microcracks, and hammer mode or heavy pressure delivers a shock the brittle tile cannot absorb. Drilling slow, cool and with light pressure removes both, so the tile stays intact.
Should you use hammer drill mode on tile?
No, never on the tile itself. Hammer or impact mode almost guarantees a crack. Drill through the tile in normal rotary mode, then switch to a masonry bit and hammer mode only once you reach the brick or concrete behind it.
How do you drill porcelain tile without cracking it?
Use a diamond bit at 400–600 RPM, tape the spot, and keep the bit wet the whole time. Start slow to make a divot, use light pressure, and ease off as you break through. Porcelain is very hard, so patience and water matter more than force.
References
- Screwfix. How To Drill Into Tile & Avoid Cracks. Retrieved 2026-07-22, screwfix.com
- Tile Mountain. How to Drill Through Tiles Without Cracking. Retrieved 2026-07-22, tilemountain.co.uk
- This Old House. How To Drill Through Tile With Ease. Retrieved 2026-07-22, thisoldhouse.com
